Alongside the Adriatic coast, sardines are normally grilled over an open hearth (na gradele) and served with lemon, glorious native olive oil and blitva, a facet dish of younger swiss chard, potato and garlic. Contemporary sardines are key (they need to odor of the ocean) and do prepare dinner them entire (the heads add fantastic flavour and the small bones soften throughout cooking). On the Croatian island of Vis, two beloved pogačas (bread)– viška and komiška – inform a story of pleasant rivalry. Each are savoury bread pies (pogača being the phrase for bread and comparable in each composition and etymology to Italian focaccia) full of onions and salted fish (usually anchovies or sardines), a nod to the island’s historical fishing and seafaring heritage. The important thing distinction? Tomatoes. In Vis city (one facet of the island), they’re absent; in Komiža (the opposite facet of the island), they’re important and cooked down right into a wealthy sauce. The tomato model is an ideal celebration of summer time.Sardele na gradele (grilled sardines) with quick-fermented tomato sauceThe quick fermentation time enhances the sauce’s depth of flavour, however not overpoweringly so – it’s barely funky, garlicky and spicy, however with a burst of freshness from the citrus and herbs. In case you are adept at fermentation, be at liberty to depart it longer (seven to 14 days), as a result of the flavour will get extra advanced with time. As soon as blended, the sauce will maintain within the fridge for as much as per week.Prep 20 minFerment 72 hr+Marinate 15 minCook 45 minServes 4-6For the tomato sauce300g inexperienced tomatoes, roughly chopped1-2 lengthy crimson or inexperienced chillies (30g), sliced, or extra to taste1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced¼ tsp black peppercornsFlaky sea salt and black pepper1 tsp caster sugar150ml filtered water, or boiled and cooled water3 tbsp lemon juice1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar, or apple cider vinegar30g contemporary parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped10g contemporary oregano, leaves picked and finely choppedFor the sardines1-1.2kg contemporary entire sardines (about 20-24 fish), gutted and descaled3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for cooking2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced2 contemporary rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped and finely chopped2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, 1 reduce into wedgesFresh bay leaves (optionally available)Begin the sauce three or 4 days upfront. In a clear, sterilised 500ml jar, layer the tomatoes, chillies, garlic and peppercorns. Dissolve 3g salt and half a teaspoon of sugar within the filtered water, then pour this over the tomatoes, guaranteeing all the things is submerged (use a fermentation weight or press down with a smaller sterilised jar). Cowl loosely with a lid or cheese fabric and depart at room temperature for 3 to 4 days, stirring each day. It ought to odor tangy, with bubbles forming by day two or three.To prepare dinner, drain the tomatoes (reserve the brine), switch the combination to a meals processor with the remaining half-teaspoon of sugar, the lemon juice and vinegar, and mix to a chunky or easy sauce based on your choice. Stir within the herbs, then regulate the salt or acidity to style; if want be, add a splash of reserved brine.Rinse the sardines below chilly water, pat dry with paper towel and put in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, combine the oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon zest, a tablespoon of salt and half a teaspoon of floor black pepper, then coat the fish on this marinade and put aside for at the least quarter-hour.For outside cooking, put together a barbecue and let the coals burn till they’re coated with a layer of white ash. Oil the grates to stop sticking or use a fish basket, and scatter bay leaves (if utilizing) immediately on to the recent coals. Lay the sardines perpendicular to the grates, in order that they received’t fall via (or within the basket) and grill for 3 to 4 minutes per facet, till the pores and skin is crisp and barely charred and the flesh is opaque and flaky. (For indoor cooking, warmth the grill to its highest setting, prepare the fish on a big lined baking sheet and grill for eight to 10 minutes.)Serve on a platter with lemon wedges and the tomato sauce in a bowl on the facet.Komiška pogačaIrina Janakievska’s komiška pogaca, a tomatoey bread pie not all that dissimilar to a calzone.Good-quality tomato puree is a good shortcut for contemporary tomatoes, and I like including olives for additional flavour. For a vegan model, use capers as a substitute of anchovies. Pogača is historically made with a firmer dough, however I favor this slow-prove, no-knead technique for a lighter texture. Serve heat, reduce into squares, with the most effective olive oil you’ll find. A glass of plavac mali wouldn’t go amiss, both.Prep 15 minProve 2 hr+Cook dinner 1 hr 30 minServes 8-12For the dough10g fast-acting dry yeast1 tbsp caster sugar, or honey525g lukewarm water750g sturdy white bread flour, sifted, plus additional for dustingFlaky sea salt and black pepper3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for brushingFor the filling4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil3-4 brown onions (about 750-800g), peeled, halved and sliced into skinny half-moons2 tbsp tomato puree, ideally double concentrate50g tin anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained and the oil reserved100g pitted black olives (ideally in olive oil), quartered lengthways2 sprigs contemporary rosemary, leaves stripped and roughly chopped10g contemporary oregano, leaves stripped and roughly choppedMix the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and put aside for 5 to 10 minutes, till frothy.Mix the flour and a tablespoon of salt in a big bowl, make a properly within the center, then add the yeast combine and a tablespoon of oil and blend to a shaggy, sticky dough. Drizzle one other tablespoon of oil over the dough, cowl and depart to show in a heat place for an hour to an hour and a half, till doubled in dimension.Knock again the dough: utilizing a fork, raise and fold the perimeters of the dough up and over the centre, turning the bowl barely every time. Repeat eight occasions, then form again right into a ball, cowl and show once more for an hour to an hour and a half, till doubled in dimension.In the meantime, make the filling. Put the oil in a sauté pan on a medium-high warmth. Add the onions, half a teaspoon of salt and three or 4 tablespoons of water, then prepare dinner, stirring sometimes, for 25-Half-hour, till smooth and golden. Stir within the tomato puree and a beneficiant grind of black pepper, prepare dinner for one more two or three minutes, then take off the warmth and depart to chill.Warmth the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gasoline 7 and brush a big 24cm x 34cm baking tin with the remaining oil. Tip the dough on to a calmly floured work floor and divide it into two items, one barely bigger than the opposite. Flour your fingers and roll each bit right into a ball, then switch the bigger piece to the oiled tin. Utilizing your fingertips, gently press and stretch the dough to cowl the underside of the tin. Unfold the cooled onion combine over the dough, prepare the anchovies on prime, and scatter on the olives, rosemary and oregano.Flour your fingers once more, stretch the second piece of dough, and place it over the filling. Pinch and fold the perimeters to seal, then prick holes everywhere in the prime with a fork. Brush throughout with the reserved anchovy oil and sprinkle over a beneficiant pinch of flaked salt. Bake for 25-Half-hour, till deep golden brown. Take away and depart to chill for at the least quarter-hour earlier than slicing and serving.
Irina Janakievska’s e book, The Balkan Kitchen, is revealed by Hardie Grant at £27. To order a replica for £24.30, go to guardianbookshop.com
