Is super skinny back? UK sees rise in complaints over thin models

Getty ImagesThe banning of excessive avenue style adverts which featured fashions who regarded “unhealthily skinny” has led trade specialists to warn of a return to the tremendous skinny development.The aesthetic characterised by fashions with hole faces and protruding bones was seen within the Nineties and early 2000s however in more moderen years been pushed apart to permit area for the physique optimistic motion which embraced curves.Nevertheless Zara, Subsequent and Marks & Spencer have all had adverts banned in current months over fashions who “appeared unhealthily skinny”. The promoting watchdog has instructed the BBC it has seen a “particular uptick” in complaints about such advertisements.The Promoting Requirements Authority (ASA) mentioned in 2025 it had obtained 5 or 6 of those complaints every week however within the two weeks after July’s M&S advert ban it had greater than 20.In 2024 it obtained 61 complaints about fashions’ weight but it surely solely had grounds to research eight.The figures are tiny however it’s one thing the watchdog is preserving an in depth eye on, together with cracking down on unlawful adverts for prescription-only weight reduction medication.ASA pointers state that advertisers ought to be sure that they do not current an unhealthy physique picture as aspirational.Getty ImagesCharli Howard is a mannequin and physique positivity activistModel and activist Charli Howard wrote a viral open letter after being dropped by her modelling company for being “too huge” regardless of being a UK dimension six to eight.A decade on she says: “I feel we’re on the cusp of seeing heroin stylish return.” The phrase heroin stylish was used within the early Nineties, when some fashions had been extraordinarily skinny, pale and had darkish underneath eye circles harking back to drug use.Ms Howard says the excessive avenue adverts are as worrying as photos being shared on social media as “thinspiration”.In June, TikTok blocked search outcomes for “skinnytok” – a hashtag which critics say directs folks in direction of content material which “idolises excessive thinness.””Some girls are naturally skinny, and that is completely tremendous. However intentionally hiring fashions who seem unwell is deeply disturbing,” she mentioned.The ASA in all its current rulings, didn’t deem any fashions to be unhealthy. Within the case of Subsequent it acknowledged that in different photographs of the identical mannequin she appeared wholesome. As an alternative it mentioned the pose, styling and digital camera angles made every of the fashions within the retailers adverts seem thinner.M&S mentioned the mannequin’s pose was chosen to painting confidence and ease and to not convey slimness. Subsequent mentioned the mannequin, whereas slim, had a “wholesome and toned physique”. NextThis Subsequent advert was banned for portraying the mannequin as “unhealthily skinny”Zara, which had two adverts banned final week, mentioned that each fashions had medical certification proving they had been in good well being.The ASA mentioned that shadows, poses, and a slick again bun coiffure had been used to make the fashions seem thinner.”Lighting positively performs a job – it could actually deliver out cheekbones, collarbones, and ribcages,” Ms Howard mentioned.”After the physique positivity motion of the 2010s, it was sadly inevitable style may swing again… and we all know simply how dangerous it may be,” she mentioned.’Not being skinny sufficient’Instagram/MissCharHolmesFor mannequin and yoga trainer Charlotte Holmes, the demand for thinner fashions is nothing new.Throughout her 20-year profession she observed “a quick second of elevated inclusivity” however was nonetheless turned down for jobs for “not being skinny sufficient.””The physique positivity motion raised consciousness, but it surely did not totally change the system. Now, it looks like we’re again the place we began,” she says. The 36-year-old was topped Miss England in 2012 and got here fourth in Britain and Eire’s Subsequent Prime Mannequin in 2010.She believes “ultra-thin” has all the time remained the “silent normal” for fashions.”Phrases like ‘heroin stylish’ and developments like ‘skinnytok’ present how shortly dangerous beliefs can resurface. It is not progress, it is repetition,” she says.’Many ladies are naturally very slim’ZaraThis Zara advert was not too long ago banned by the UK promoting regulatorFashion journalist and advisor Victoria Moss doesn’t suppose we face “heroin stylish” however as an alternative connects the development to the rise of weight reduction injections.”What’s taking place in the mean time throughout broader tradition is about thinness being held up as an ethical well being crucial, pushed by the zeal over GLP-1 weight reduction remedy,” she says.Ms Moss acknowledged many celebrities, like Kim Kardashian and Oprah Winfrey, have visibly shrunk earlier than our eyes. However she nonetheless thinks it’s uncommon to see very slim fashions in Excessive Avenue style campaigns, saying it’s “extra a catwalk phenomenon”.”I feel in all these circumstances the fashions have been very younger, it have to be extremely upsetting for them to develop into the main focus of those banned adverts. Many ladies are naturally very slim and it’s fallacious to solid aspersions,” she says.’Physique variety is essential’Simone Konu-Rae stylist and senior lecturer in style communication at Central Saint Martins, College of the Arts, London says whereas it is very important “recognize that the human physique is available in a spread of sizes and shapes”, being skinny is just not essentially again in style “it merely by no means went away”.”Excessive Avenue manufacturers use runway fashions to raise their collections,” she reckons.”The Excessive Avenue is saying ‘look, now we have the identical mannequin as your favorite luxurious model, and our merchandise look simply nearly as good at a fraction of the worth’,” she provides.Ms Konu-Rae says the issue is just not that the fashions aren’t wholesome however that that is “not the norm for many individuals, and attempting to attain this physique kind could be dangerous.”Displaying extra physique variety is essential to displaying folks they are often trendy and trendy with out having to alter who they’re,” she says.’Return of 90’s silhouettes’Private stylist Keren Beaumont says the comeback of nineties style – reminiscent of ultra-low rise denims and strappy slip tops – might be accountable.”With these re-emerging developments in silhouettes, we see hip bones and chests uncovered and in step with the unique displays of those silhouettes, these are being proven on very, very skinny fashions,” she says.”My hope is that the current imagery from Subsequent, M&S and Zara shall be a reminder to manufacturers to keep up the range now we have seen in fashions in recent times and to not regress again to outdated requirements.”Matt Wilson on the ASA says the difficulty highlighted manufacturers’ duties and “the thoughtfulness they should take”.”Societally we all know there’s an issue with consuming problems and we should proceed to ban adverts that will trigger hurt.”In case you are involved in regards to the points raised on this article, assist and help is on the market by way of the BBC Motion Line.